Day 50:

Whip up a hearty breakfast in the kitchen and enjoy a relaxing morning coffee on the deck. Check the swell on surfline.com and head out to the beach with boards should conditions be in your favor.  Surf either right out front of the Airbnb at the La Lora break or down at the Playa Carmen break. When you are tired, come back for some downtime and perhaps even a little mid-afternoon nap. Once restored, head out to Roca Mar, a thriving beachfront cafe and surf lounge. You will find a narrow little road on your left as you are leaving town, there is a sign that advertises the restaurant at the intersection of the main road and this little side street. Park on the little side street, walk through the restaurant, and out onto the beach. Walk right around the nearest point, the sandy shore will start to get steeper and the large and looming “suck rock” will come into view. Walk down the beach until you reach a sheltered little cove in front of a very beautiful boutique hotel with two swinging white sofas attached to trees, a rack of surfboards, and a few loungers. This is the perfect little swimming hole. The swelly Pacific calms down in here and makes for an ideal afternoon plunge. After you swim to your heart’s content in the sheltered bay, head back to the Roca Mar restaurant for a bite. Their slow braised short ribs which you will see being smoked over a fire have explosive flavor and are cooked to perfection.  

 

Day 51: 

Cook up a healthy breakfast and pack a backpack full of snacks and water for a hike to the Montezuma waterfalls. Drive roughly thirty minutes from the Airbnb to the Montezuma waterfall trailhead. Parking is scarce but if you can find a spot in the quaint little parking lot with vendors selling  handmade local art, trinkets, and pipa frias – cold coconuts – parking is 2,000 colones. Hike up along the river through a series of gnarled roots and a brief river crossing (all skill levels). This hike is difficult but can indeed be done in flip-flops in a pinch. When you reach a series of ascending timber stairs on the left-hand side of the river when hiking up you can take this staircase up to the top two upper pools or choose to take a more advanced and adventurous route up the mountainside and through the jungle. The latter is thrilling.  Continue hiking up the river until you reach the lower waterfall and the wide natural swimming pool to take the more intrepid route. At the far end of the waterfall, there will be a series of ropes and gnarled roots that will guide you on a steep and challenging ascent to the upper waterfall, this will take roughly twenty minutes. Enjoy the cool refreshing pool of the upper and lower waterfalls. Jump off various ledges at your own risk.  

After you reach your vehicle back at the trailhead, make your way into the small and sleepy town of Montezuma. Here you can go for a walk on the beach and then stop by the Bakery Cafe for a delicious casado and some powerful fruit batidos or smoothies that will provide you with a much-needed refresher. After you explore and walk around the tiny little town, head south for ten to fifteen minutes to Playa los Cedros where you can catch a beautiful little rolling point break at low tide. Surf at this virtually empty paradise until the sun sets and then make your way back home, passing through the gasolinera in Cobano should you need to refuel. That evening, walk over to El Facon for a delicious Argentinian steak and taste one of their Cabernets or Malbecs.  You can’t go wrong, they often have live music, so perhaps you will be able to catch a bit of entertainment as well.  

 

Day 52:

Enjoy a morning coffee on the deck, while listening to the Cicadas stir and watching the Howler Monkeys move about in the canopy above. Afterward, head to the Malpais tidal pools. They are best at low tide and can be found by driving just past the end of town in Santa Teresa, keeping right at the intersection at the straightway of the hustle and bustle of town, and then heading down the first dirt road accessible to the public. Once here park and walk down the beach to the left until you find a distinct curve in the beach with long slablike stretches of rock angling down into the ocean. These are the Malpais tidal pools. You can wade out into the outermost point of the tidal pool, where the pool becomes a tranquil and warm lagoon perfect for relaxing, with the current of the Pacific replenishing the water with a cool freshness. After you enjoy the pools, head over to Ani’s bowls for a refreshing snack and an Acaí bowl to get your fruit-infused energy rush of the day. 

Later that afternoon, head to Cocalito Beach just outside of Tambor. This is a waterfall, beach, and cave hike all in one. Cocalito is about an hour's drive from the Airbnb in Santa Teresa. Park in the only parking lot at the end of the road as you head toward Cocalito Beach, from here it is a brief five-minute hike down to the waterfall past a gated and boutique luxury complex, and into the jungle. From the top of the waterfall, there is a beautiful view of water pouring down on the rocks below and the strong Pacific swells smashing against the rock. Cross over the top of the waterfall and make your way down the trail winding through a series of rocks and boulders until you reach the sand at the bottom. Here, there is a cool cave to explore, and the center of the beach provides a great spot to jump in the water, however, beware of the rip current and make sure you stay close to shore. That evening head to Bajo El Arbol for a delicious Basque-inspired tapas menu. The chef Julio is from the Basque country and definitely cooks with love. The croquettes are divine and the thinly sliced eggplant is delicious.  The secret garden atmosphere is also a beautiful little retreat from the dusty main road and a step back from Santa Teresa’s fast-paced energy. 

 

Day 53:

Wake up early, get a big breakfast in, throw some hiking shoes on, and pack a lunch. Head to the Cabo Blanco nature reserve for a hike to one of the most beautiful and secluded beaches on the peninsula - playa Cabo Blanco. Bring lots of water, at least two or three liters per person. This is a hot and rugged two-hour hike each way (from the trailhead to the beach and back from the beach to the lot) through a beautiful jungle, century-old trees, and a complex maze of hanging vines. The gnarled roots on the jungle floor are out of this world. On this hike it is more than likely you will see White-Faced Capuchin monkeys, Coati’s, Howler Monkeys, Deer, and Great Curassow birds. You should get to the trailhead before 9:30 am to ensure that you are not hiking in the heat of the day. When you get to the beach, make the effort to stumble over stones to the left to reach the white sand paradise beach on the left end of the bay. It is more than likely that you will have this stunning white sand stretch of beach with its smattering of lone palm trees entirely to yourself. Make sure to start hiking back before the sun gets too low so you have plenty of time and light to find your way to the parking lot. Afterward, head up towards Montezuma and grab a locally brewed beer at the Butterfly Brewing Co–just outside Montezuma. This beautiful little spot tucked in the canopy is the perfect spot to decompress, have a cold one, and perhaps a couple of pulled pork or grilled vegetable sliders. Head back to the Airbnb to shower and change into dinner clothes. After a brief lie down, make your way over to Koji’s restaurant, which is up a steep hill on the left-hand side after Katana restaurant. Koji’s has some of the best sushi in town with Tuna pulled right out of the Pacific that day. Their fresh greens, exquisite ponzu sauces, and hints of citrus will satisfy any sushi maestro's craving.  

Stunning Ceibo Trees on the hike to Cabo Blanco

 

Day 54: 

Make yourself a smoothie breakfast using the blender at the surf cottage and then head down to Playa Carmen for some early morning waves. Surf to your heart's content. Then, pull yourself out of the water and drop by Tropico Latino for a relaxing lunch. Their fried red snapper is just the thing if you are ravenous or can be split by two people as well if you are not quite so hungry.  Have a green smoothie or a glass of rose to polish lunch off.  Next, make your way over to RocaMar - park and walk through the restaurant, turning right and walking around the sandy peninsula until you reach the beautiful little secluded beach and swimming hole just in front of the boutique hotel with white sofas that swing from trees and a handful of white loungers. After you swim and enjoy the deep drop-off of this little swimming hole, head up to the restaurant of the little boutique hotel called Nectar for an ice-cold piña colada.  Stay here for a dazzling view of the sunset over the water. Afterward, head over to Eat Street – a buzzing social hub with three different restaurants built into shipping containers as well as a fabulous cocktail bar – for a delicious burrito or a poke bowl. You can top this all off with a key lime pie or affogato (espresso over chocolate) from the dessert shop inside the dining area. Afterward, on your way back home, stop by Somos Cafe to see if there is any live music.  This is a lively little spot and can also draw in a big crowd from all over Playa Santa Teresa as it's right by the nightclub La Lora Amarilla and the crowd will often head over there after live music at Somos. 

 

Day 55: 

Wake up with a little morning coffee on the deck and then head to El Patio Cafe for a big breakfast. Order a detox green smoothie to kickstart your day.  Head down to the beach right in front of the Airbnb and walk to the left until you reach the first lifeguard stand. Have a little morning surf here and soak in the dazzling rays of sun over the shimmering blue water. Afterward, at two in the afternoon, head down to the Mal-Pais fishery. Book a three-hour fishing ship with Captain Douglas – 300 USD before tip. You can find the website here santateresafishing.com or shoot Douglas a WhatsApp at +506–8319-9009. Captain Douglas, is an excellent fisherman and will practically bring the fish to the boat for you. Oftentimes hooking a snapper or a grouper with some live bait and the flick of his wrist.  

 

Alex with grouper

 

The fishing expedition will take you out into four hundred feet of water off of the point of Cabo Blanco. Captain Douglas will provide you with plenty of water and beer if you like.  You will fish for about three hours in the open Pacific, seeing rays jump out of the water and feeling a beautiful and serene sense of being virtually alone in the open ocean. As the sun starts to head towards the horizon, you will head in with your fresh catches, race through the narrow channeled harbor of Malpaís and watch the boat be hauled up on a trailer above the high water mark. Captain Douglas will also do you the favor of gutting the fish or fileting them, depending on how you would like to cook your prize. The best method is a slow roast over an open flame grill with olive oil and rosemary, the fish will make a mouth-wateringly delicious dinner for you that evening. Freeze whatever fish you do not cook. 

 

The days haul

​

On the fishing boat with Captain Douglas in Mal País

 

La Fortuna

Day 56: 

Have a coffee on the patio and pack your bags. After the car is all set to go and you have checked out of the Airbnb, throw yourself into the salty Santa Teresa water one last time before the five-hour trip to the cloud rainforest of La Fortuna. If you lucked out and caught fish yesterday, you can buy a cooler at the Mega Super at the end of the main road. Put La Fortuna in your google maps and drive for about two and a half hours to a delicious little soda – on the side of the road – Marino Margus Restaurante. It is a perfect stopping point for the drive and they have a delicious pollo en salsa and carne en salsa casados. The ceviche there is also out of this world and the restaurant happens to be right by a large tree, home to a playful family of howler monkeys. Once you are fully satiated, get on the road, cross the large Taiwanese-style bridge, and start making your ascent into the rolling mountains of La Fortuna. You will wind your way through the lush jungle along the coast of Lake Arenal until you reach La Fortuna. At first glance, La Fortuna will feel jarringly touristic and that is because well, it is. It is a town like many of those outside of the Grand Canyon that runs entirely on tourism. Fortunately, you will be staying in a quiet and peaceful Airbnb on the far side of town, close to local coffee fields and where the Ticos who live in town reside. You can book with Carlos here for just USD 48 a night. Carlos’ place has a cute little living room, a massive bathroom with jungle plants inside, and a king bed with a 55-inch flatscreen mounted on the wall across from you for you to indulge yourself. After you unpack and settle in, head to Restaurante Café Mediterráneo for the best pizza in town, delicious salads, or a hearty steak. Go to bed on the early side as you will have a big day ahead of you tomorrow.

 

Restaurante Marino Margus

 

Day 57:

Wake up and scramble some eggs, throw the coffee on, and look up the 1968 lava flow trail. Survey the trail and then head to the trailhead about fifteen minutes from you. The entrance fee to the park is USD 25 a person.  Enjoy a beautiful two-hour hike along the lava flow, with stunning tropical greenery and several vistas. At the end of the hike, you will reach Lava‘ 68 Cafeteria, an upscale cafe with an expansive view of the lake and whatever amount of the Arenal Volcano the weather is permitting you to see. It has a charming staff and it is the perfect spot for a dash of coffee and lunch. After this head down the same road you took to get to the 1968 trailhead until you reach Los Tucanes and Old Lava flow trailheads. Here, pay the entrance fee at the top parking lot and hike a little over an hour along the loop trail of Old Lava Flow trail. Afterward, as it gets towards four or five pm, head up Los Tucanes trail and keep your eyes trained on the canopy above. It is more than likely that you will see Toucans. They emit a trilling call that sounds like a bullfrog, so if you hear those deep, throaty, frog-like noises, you can locate Toucans by following their calls. They prefer dead trees or ones without leaves so they can survey the entire canopy layer without having their line of sight interrupted by foliage. Make your way back to the parking lot before dark and head home to shower and change for the evening. Head out to D´mi Tierra for a delicious dinner in a soda with an intellectual roaring 20s-themed twist. They have a delicious  “Casado Especial” and both the fish and steak are cooked to perfection.  

 

Alex & Caitlin lounging in sky hammocks by Lava ‘68 Cafeteria

 

Day 58:

Wake up early around 6:30 am and head to the La Fortuna waterfall which opens at 7 am. The waterfall is only seven minutes from Airbnb. This immense and powerful thundering waterfall is a sight to behold and all the more special if you can beat the tour buses and crowds that start to pour in at 8 am. After you see the La Fortuna waterfall, have breakfast at Soda la Mariquita San Ramon, a delicious little Soda on the side of the road about twenty-five minutes from the waterfall. Then head up into the mountains to the Children's Eternal forest for a hike in some of the most dense rainforests that you will encounter. The Rainforest is closed during national holidays. After the hike, head home and put some nice clothes on, and make sure to bring a swimsuit as well. Head to Jalapas restaurant for upscale Costa Rican lunch and a stunning view of the Volcano to the south and the low-lying valleys and sweeping farmland to the north. Leo's Salmon and the Carribean chicken are the best on the menu. You can polish this all off with a bottle of cold Chilean white wine. On a clear day, looking to the northeast, you can see as far as the mountains of Nicaragua. Once you are finished with lunch, head to The Springs Resort, quite close to Jalapas for a dose of the rich mineral hot springs on your skin. Work your way up from the 90-degree pools to the 104-degree pools and don’t skip the swim-up bar in the upper pools or the monkey slide down in the lower, ‘Los Perdidos’ pools. When you get hungry, pull yourself out of the luxurious springs and head to the sushi restaurant on the second floor.  

 

La fortuna Waterfall

 

Day 59:

Have breakfast at Arábigos Coffee house, they do an excellent Huevos Rancheros on toast.  Then, make your way to the Las Cataratas Escondidas, a series of hidden waterfalls in the jungle. You will find them by driving past the main La Fortuna Waterfall parking lot down a little dirt road until you reach a large yellow fence. Here, park the car and walk to the left side of the fence, you will see there is an opening and a little trail where people have stepped around the fence and continued on the path. Hike ten minutes or so past a little river crossing, and then make your way down a muddied slope to the rushing river. If the river is too high do not attempt to cross. If you can cross the river, walk along the shoreline on the other side for about five minutes until you reach the waterfalls. Head back to the house for a siesta. That evening, walk to dinner at La Tiquicia, a little soda just around the corner with delicious authentic food and a great pollo casado.  

 

Alex & Caitlin exploring Las Cataratas Escondidas

 

San Jose

Day 61:

Wake up and head to Entre Nous Creperie for a delicious breakfast. After that, walk around the neighborhood and explore the art and beautiful murals of Barrio Escalante. Make your way towards El Teatro Nacional. Once at the national theater purchase the next available tickets for an English language tour. If you need to kill some time before the tour, head to El Catedral, just a couple of steps away. This church has beautiful stained glass windows depicting various scenes from the bible. It is massive, with very uplifting energy.  You can light an electronic candle below the archangel Michael for a 100-colones coin if you feel so inclined. After this, make your way to the coffee shop inside the Teatro Nacional. This coffee shop is delicious, with high-quality coffee, and a delightful assortment of sandwiches. Take the tour of the beautiful Italian marble architecture and artworks within the theater, the guides have a hilarious little bit they put on, it lasts about an hour and doesn’t disappoint. When the tour comes to its conclusion, make your way back to Barrio Escalante and stop at Costa Rica Beer Factory for a pint. Afterward, make your way over to Apotecario next door. This groovy little garden restaurant has a delicious selection of cocktails in skull-shaped glasses with ice cubes shaped like skulls as well. The Negronis here will set the mood perfectly and you won’t regret ordering the Boulevardier – a bourbon, sweet vermouth, and Campari cocktail with an orange peel garnish – perfect for the cool San Jose nights. On top of this, the meat and cheese platter has an excellent crême fresh and the Risotto and Steak Tagliata mains are a work of art. Head back to the Airbnb for a soak in the hot tub – you will have to reserve a time slot with the doorman – and collapse into bed.  

 

Caitlin & King in front of a retro car in Barrio Escalante

Caitlin and King in front of the Museo Nacional

Inside the Teatro Nacional

A riveting guided tour of the Teatro Nacional

 

Day 62:

Have a leisurely morning and stroll down Calle 33 to Luz de Luna, a quaint hotel and brunch and breakfast place where they serve potatoes, mushrooms, tomatoes, eggs, bacon, and cheese in your own miniature skillet. Afterward, continue exploring Barrio Escalante. Head back to NoTa Escalante when you feel like you have gotten the lay of the land. Next, hit the gym and have a workout session on the roof. Then, throw yourself into the hot tub for a half hour of deep relaxation. When you have changed and are ready to go out again, head down Calle 33 to Fresh Market, an organic market with an impressive array of fresh produce and organic food. This is the sort of organic store you will not have seen for months, so take advantage of the opportunity to get some of the freshest greens of your trip. Buy dinner for tonight to cook in the studio apartment and ample breakfast makings. For coffee, you can not go wrong with the white 1820 Reserva Especial coffee bag. 

 

Day 63:

Head for the churches. Make your first stop at Iglesia San Isidro de Coronado, then drive over to Iglesia San Isidro Labrador, and finally Parroquia San Joaquín de Flores. You will find ornate architecture, roof tiles shipped over from Belgium, and beautiful stained glass windows inside all these houses of worship. Afterward, head down to La Sabana Park for a stroll through San Jose’s most prominent city esplanade. You will see many Tico families relaxing and enjoying skewers of roasted pork, join them under a shady tree, and watch a game of pickup soccer. When you start feeling hungry, head to Doma Escalante – a beautiful upscale cafe with a wonderful garden and tasteful splashes of color that transport you to a Spanish villa. The food is delicious, the Ensalada de Prosciutto will serve as a good introduction to the quality of the meal, you can follow this up with the Gorgonzola Gnocchi with Spanish chorizo, grilled octopus, and salsa verde or the Entraña skirt steak in a caramelized onion and potato puree. Round your lunch out with a delicious espresso and walk around the Barrio Escalante neighborhood. There are various galleries listed on google maps for you to pop into. Head back home for some R&R and cook yourself dinner with the groceries you bought yesterday. 

 

Alex on the top steps of Iglesia San Isidro de Coronado

Whale skeleton sculpture at La Sabana park

Lunch in the wonderful Dome Escalante courtyard

 

Day 64:

After making yourself a nutritious breakfast, head to the Spirogyra butterfly garden. Take an Uber here because the walking is doable but does not feel very safe. Tour the beautiful butterfly reserve and take a walk down a twisting trail to the river.  After this, head to Barrio Amon – just around the corner. Walk around the beautiful neighborhood of Barrio Amon until you reach October Six Cafe just across the street from the Hemingway Inn. Stop for a beautiful lunch on this airy little street corner.  October Six cafe does their shrimp tacos best – with tortillas made from scratch – and their tomato soup is exceptional. You will find that everything on the menu is delightfully refreshing. Walk back over to Barrio Escalante from the Amon area. Head back to the apartment for a quick workout using the rooftop gym. When you are feeling hungry again make your way to Lebanese restaurant Faqra - named after the UNESCO Roman archeological site in the Lebanese mountains. The mezze plate for two is the way to go with a sampling of everything on the menu from hummus and babaganoush to lamb shish kebab skewers and falafel. After you are fully satiated, stop by B&S Ice Cream for a little snack on your way home. 

 

Caitlin exploring the Spirogyra Butterfly Garden

A butterfly alighting on Caitlin’s shoulder

Caitlin in the verdant foliage of the butterfly garden

Caitlin at the October Six Cafe across from the Hemingway Inn

 

Uvita

Day 65:

Put the coffee on, chef up breakfast, pack your bags, and head out of San Jose for Uvita. The drive will bring you through beautiful and chilly cloud forests, reaching an elevation of almost 10,000 feet. The road is windy, but if you bring some snacks along for the ride you will be able to reach Uvita in one go. Book Mary’s Surf Shack for USD 65 a night here. It is a cozy little Airbnb, perfect for getting some sleep after a long day in the sun.  Unpack, and then walk down to the Marino Ballena National Park entrance - Uvitas famous Whale’s Tail - and jump into the ocean. There is a small entrance fee but if you go just before 5 pm and flash a smile, you may luck out and be let in for free. After your plunge, head to Fernando's restaurant on the main street in town for dinner. 

 

Day 66:

Head to Que Tuanis Café for a breakfast burrito or huevos rancheros. Afterward, head to Playa Arco for a day in the sun with a book and plenty of water.  Playa Arco can only be accessed at low tide so check the tides online to see if they are in your favor.  Input La Cusinga Lodge into google maps. At the gate, explain to the guards that you would like to go down to the beach and have lunch at the restaurant after. Once through the gate, park in the restaurant lodge and head down the Roots Trail to Playa Arco. The trail will take you past trees that were there before Columbus sailed to the Americas. It is about a fifteen-minute hike down a relatively steep grade, if you are lucky you will see lots of Howlers and Toucans in the Canopy above. Enjoy the remote expanse of Playa Arco, go for a little exploration down the beach and you will see a large cave. This cave is a short tunnel you can walk through and come out farther along the beach, make sure to give it a little run-through. After you have had enough time in the sun, make your way back up to the Aracari Restaurant at Cusinga Lodge. Apart from the spectacular and sweeping views perched on a hilltop over the Pacific, the restaurant has a family of Aracari birds – a relative of the Toucan with a thinner bill and a red stripe along their belly – that will flutter between the trees while you enjoy a delicious lunch. The seared Ahi Tuna with a sesame and soy sauce crust is excellent as well as the cold Gazpacho soup and Mahi Mahi Tacos. Head home and have a lighter dinner, to prepare yourself for another sun-soaked day tomorrow. If you are feeling like a little evening treat, stop by the French Cafe for a little passionfruit cheesecake or a brownie and ice cream dessert. 

 

View from the trail leading down to the desolate low tide beach – Playa Arco

 

Day 67:

Chef up a quick breakfast and head to the whale's tail with flippers, a mask, and snorkels. Enjoy walking out through Marino Ballena National Park to the very end of the Whale’s Tail peninsula composed of sand and rock. Bring a cooler with some sandwiches so you can lunch on the whale's tail. Go for a snorkel on the left-hand side of the whale's tail when looking out towards the ocean. Ask some other beachgoers to keep an eye on your things while you are snorkeling and don’t bring anything of value. The water is warm, almost too warm, but as you make your way out, it will start to cool down and get more refreshing around the rocks that make up the Whales Tail. You will see an abundance of marine life here including Parrotfish, Sergeant Majors, Octopus, and Trunkfish. Spend the whole day on the whale's tail until the tide starts to come in. Make sure to start making your way back when the thinnest section of the tail becomes submerged underwater and the whale tail you have been on becomes a tiny little island. That evening buy some fish or some meat and use the smoker out back for a terrific home-grilled meal. If you caught fish on your expedition in Mal País, defrost and throw them on the grill.   

Grilled snapper on the smoker

 

Day 68:

Head to Playa Hermosa for a day at Uvita’s public beach which is the only dog-friendly beach in Uvita, and still totally beautiful. Park by the lifeguard stand and bring a cooler and a book. Swim out into the surf and enjoy the wide expanse of Playa Hermosa. After you have had some time in the sun, go for a run down the beach. If you go for a little more than ten minutes you will find that you have the entire sweeping beach to yourself. Look up into the trees along the coast as you run and you just might see a Scarlet Macaw or seven. Hang out until late afternoon at Playa Hermosa and you will see the beach come alive at sunset as families, locals, and surfer dogs come out to watch the sun drop over the Pacific. That evening, head to Sibu Cafe for dinner. While the restaurant is located on the side of the highway, its atmosphere and food are more than enough to make the sound of cars whooshing past worth it. Start with the Supreme Green Salad and then choose between the Angus and Wagyu Ragu and the New York Strip Steak with rosemary potatoes.  They are both phenomenal.  Polish this all off with their delicious chocolate cake. 

 

Puerto Jimenez

​

Day 69:

Check out of the Uvita Surf Shack Airbnb and head to Erick’s Casa Osa Lion on the Osa Peninsula. You can book with Erick here for USD 50 a night. The drive will take you about two and a half hours as you slalom through palm trees and the jungle on the way to Puerto Jimenez. Stop at Ventana al Golfo for a bite if you get hungry on the way to Puerto Jimenez. They have a beautiful first initial view of Golfo Dulce and very kind staff. Check-In to Casa Osa Lion with Erick, he is very kind and knowledgeable. Ask him to set you up with a guide to go hiking in Corcovado National Park – one of the largest pulls of the Osa Peninsula, known for its Flora and Fauna. That evening, after you unpack a bit, go for a stroll right by the house. It is almost a guarantee that you will see families of White Faced Capuchin and Squirrel Monkeys. To start the hike, take the straight dirt road that brought you off the highway to the house to its very end until you get to a sharp left turn in the road. Once you reach this left turn, it will be at the corner of a large ranch-style typical Tico home, take the trail to the right which is over a river bed and along a series of cow pastures. The hike immerses you in the immediate jungle of the Osa Peninsula and serves as a spectacular introduction to the wildlife here. Follow the trail out to the tidal flats and the mangrove swamps and then turn around to come back the way you came. Keep your eyes on the canopy above for any signs of movement. That evening head to RapiRicos – a local joint in Puerto Jimenez – for a big Casado meal.   

 

View from the second floor deck of Casa Osa Lion

 

Day 70:

Have a coffee on the beautiful little porch and sofa overlooking the road. When you are ready, head to Playa Matapalo to soak in the sun and surf. This is a gorgeous beach with azure waters and near-complete solitude. A literal breath of fresh air. Keep your eyes out for sloths (Oso Perezoso), Toucans, and Scarlet Macaws. Make sure to pack a lunch and bring a book because you are going to want to be here almost all day. Stop by the B&H supermarket in Puerto Jimenez on the way out to Matapalo. To get to Matapalo Beach, take the road to Matapalo and drive past the little town, turn left when you see a sign for “Encanta La Vida Hotel”. Make your way past Playa Pan Dulce on the bumpy little 4x4 road until you arrive at Matapalo Beach. Set up shop here for a day in the sun. When you start to lose full sun on the Matapalo side, go home, grab your dog, and head over to Playa Puerto Jimenez for some late afternoon light in the calm Golfito Bay. You can’t go wrong with a home-made charcuterie board full of prosciutto, manchego, local olives, and fresh bread on the tidal flats here. Head home and cook dinner with the groceries you bought in town. Coordinate with a guide that evening to take you into Corcovado National Park tomorrow. Get some rest because it is going to be a long day tomorrow! Erick can set you up with a national park guide to Leona Station, but Anthony Diaz Garcia is highly recommended. He is incredibly kind and very knowledgeable about the flora and fauna of Corcovado. You can reach out to him via WhatsApp at +506-8720-7152.

 

Caitlin at Matapalo Beach

The azure waters of Matapalo Beach

Caitlin and King soaking in the warm waters of Golfo Dulce

 

Day 71: 

Wake up at 4:30 am to pack and get yourself ready for a big day in the jungle. Meet Anthony at the Bakery– Panederia Monar – in town at 5:30 am. The tour is $250 for two people or $130 per person. You must bring cash, but if you do not have any, you can pull some out of the atm across from the B&H supermarket in town. For the hike into Corcovado national park, you will need at least a liter and a half of water, snacks and a sandwich lunch, good hiking shoes, shorts, and a quick dry shirt. Get something at the bakery–they have delicious egg and gallo pinto burritos–and hop on the road to Karate Beach. Drive for about an hour and a half with Anthony until you reach the Karate Airstrip. During this time keep your eyes peeled for Toucan, Green Parrot, Common Black Hawk, Scarlet Macaw, and Yellow Headed Caracara to name a few. Anthony has an amazing Vortex monocular scope setup with a tripod that will allow you to see the birds and other animals in the high tree canopy in stunning detail. After you reach the airstrip, you will park the car and head into the jungle. You will hike with Anthony through dry riverbeds and thick jungle full of strangler trees and long vines that drop from the upper canopy for eight kilometers. During this time, keep an eye out for Spider Monkeys, Collared AntEaters, White-faced Capuchin, and Two-toed sloths to name a few of the animals that inhabit Corcovado. This is truly an animal kingdom, take a moment to appreciate the immensity and diversity of life here on the Osa Peninsula. Anthony gives a phenomenal tour and his knowledge of each of the species and their behaviors is quite impressive. Ask Anthony to bring you to “The Door” – a beautiful Matapalo tree that has shaped itself in the form of a large doorway. As you cross the Rio Madrigal, beware of the Caimans that lurk underneath its murky blue waters. After the tour is concluded, say your goodbyes to Anthony and head home to cook yourself a well-deserved meal. With well over twenty thousand steps under your belt, there is no doubt that you will sleep well.  

 

Red-Lored Parrot

Scarlett Macaw

Spider Monkey

Three-Toed Sloth

El Puerto “The door”

White-faced Capuchin Monkeys cleaning each other

Cayman sprinting into water

 

Day 72:

Sleep in as long as the sun will allow you to. After breakfast, head to Punta Arenitas for a relaxing day at the beach and a swim in El Golfo Dulce. To get there, you will take a single-track 4WD sand road out to the very point along Playa Platanares and past a series of guest houses and boutique hotels until you arrive at the isolated little beach. The water is silky and a very relaxing temperature, you can stay in it for hours. If you want to stay longer on the beach, make sure to bring bug spray because they have plenty of no-see-ems there. In the afternoon, head back to Casa Osa Lion, but on the way, stop by the Blue Osa Hotel right on the bay by Playa Puerto Jimenez and ask to rent a kayak to go and see the bioluminescence in the bay at night. Kayaks are USD 10 per hour so you can rent one from 5 pm–8 pm for USD 30. Golfo Dulce has an incredible display of bioluminescence year-round. Bioluminescence occurs as thousands of plankton floating on the surface of the water flash brightly when disturbed to scare off or distract predators. Enjoy the magical delight of the bay as each paddle stroke leaves behind a glowing swirl of light.  

​

A sunset paddle in the Golfo Dulce bay which then turned into a bioluminescent night kayak

 

Pavones

Day 73:

Wake up and drive to Pavones or Turkey Town for a breath of some of Costa Rica's most wild and remote coastline. The drive will take about three hours and bring you to Cabo Punto Banco, a special quiet place that truly feels like the end of the Earth. Make sure to fuel up on gas and get some extra cash out of ATMs that you will pass in the Golfito area. The drive is pleasant and will afford excellent views of Golfo Dulce. You will drive through Pavones and out to just before Punta Banco – a small town with a blue church and a little soccer field. You will drive by an airstrip and then just after Tsikita lodge, you will find Casa Marea Alta – the cute eco lodge which you can book for USD 50 a night here – on the left-hand side of the road, turn in one driveway after a sign that says “surf and cabinas”. The lodge itself is nestled in a tranquil tropical garden with large gourds, fruits, and flowers that you will likely have never seen before, spanning the little pathways between the main high-timbered hangout area and the cabins. Casa Marea Alta is Tranquilo by all definitions of the word. There is a sense of peace here that you will not feel anywhere else during your trip. Fireflies twinkle in the grass and geckos cackle and laugh at one another in the night air. The lodge is free of distractions and offers a chance to truly connect with your surrounding environment. The host Clyde, is very charismatic, good company in the water, and will help you with anything you need. That evening, go for dinner at la Piña, a little Italian restaurant with delicious pizza and Tagliata-style steak. The service is slow here but the food speaks for itself and makes the wait well worth it. They take cards here – use one so you can hold on to the cash you have.  

 

Day 74:

Cook a hearty breakfast in the shared kitchen at the lodge. Enjoy Punta Banco’s beautiful black sand beach and long gentle rolling waves right out front. Paddle out with your board directly in line with the entrance to the lodge and surf your heart out. The surfing is best an hour and a half before or after high tide. Pull yourself out of the water and make some lunch. If you don’t have anything, stop by the Rio Claro Supermercado in Pavones and load up on lunch makings and buy yourself some dinner items for the week. Unload your groceries back at the lodge into your section of the refrigerator.  Later that afternoon, head to the soccer field with a book to bask in the sun.  The field is a great alternative to the beach if the tide is too high and there is no accessible beach. Chef up something tasty in the main kitchen that evening.  

 

Day 75: 

Scramble up some eggs, make some coffee the authentic Tico way through a sock-like device you will find in the kitchen, and hit the surf out front. You can pick from either the left or the right side of the long black beach. There is a great break right by the mouth of the small river of Punto Blanco and there is also an excellent break directly in front of the airfield by the lodge. These are some of the best waves you will encounter in Costa Rica so make them count. After you are dog-tired from paddling in the surf, head back to the lodge for a quick bite and then to the little soccer field to soak in some late afternoon rays. That evening, cook dinner for yourself using the groceries you bought in town. 

 

Caitlin and King walking down the beach in front of Casa Marea Alta to the soccer field

​

Day 76:

Wake up, have a small breakfast, and then go for a run on the beach. After you read a little and have lunch, go for a hike.  Drive out on the one dirt road until it separates from the beach and veers left up a very steep hill. Park at the bottom of this hill and begin your hike. There is no doubt that the incline will be a good workout. Keep your eyes trained on the canopy for Squirrel Monkeys and Toucans. Hike as long as you are able to,  and then head back down the slope. In the afternoon, make your way over to a little vegetarian restaurant in town – Cafe de la Suerte. They have a delicious Buddha Bowl there and excellent cauliflower bites. The Falafel salad is also a good option if you are looking for something on the lighter side. 

 

Alex and Caitlin at a viewpoint along the hike up the road

 

Day 77:

Head out horseback riding with Jonny! The beach is a great way to go with the horses. It is USD 40 per horse. You can contact Jonny via Whatsapp at +506-8662-1484 or Clyde will be able to arrange a time for you to go riding the day before. Gallop over the stunning stretches of black sand down to the tide pools and then back up along this lost and lush coast. Jonny is a true Cowboy and knows the Pavones area and the mountains like the back of his hand. If you speak Spanish, he may indulge you with a story or two.  

Horseback riding with Jonny on the Punta Banco sands

Later that afternoon, head to the mechanic next to Supermercado Los Delfines to buy gas by the gallon. Look for a run-down yard with lots of car parts and tires and a gate right on the main road. If you do not have cash, you can get cash back from a credit card transaction at the Los Delfines (next door). They charge a ten percent fee but they are the only place that you can do this in town, or for that matter, within sixty miles. That evening, head back to the lodge to make yourself a delicious dinner. 

​

Sunset at Punta Banco

 

Day 78:

Chef up a breakfast and head to the beach right out front. Hang out at the beach all day. Do not forget to bring plenty of water and sunscreen if it’s a scorcher - the black sand can really heat the beach up. For lunch, head back to the lodge and make a little sandwich with some freshly made bread - you can buy it at the bakery next door to “Nick's Place” in town. Ask for the “Pan Salado” or Salty Bread. For dinner, head into town for a casado at La Casona de Perron - a quaint lookout restaurant with a deck and lots of festive flags as well as the necessary surf highlight reels playing in the background. They have a delicious Pescado con Ajillo or Fish with Garlic sauce. When you make it back to Casa Marea Alta look up at the stars - if it is a clear night you will not be disappointed and should go for a walk on the beach out front. 

 

Day 79:

Have a coffee and hit the surf. Relax on the Punta Banco beach all day and enjoy your last full day in the area. Knock a couple of coconuts down from the palm trees along the beach with a big stick. You can ask Clyde back at the lodge for a machete to open these up. If you feel like a change of scenery, you can head six kilometers down the road to the Pavones Point surf break.  If the conditions align here this break turns into one of the longest lefts in the world. Catch the sunset at the beach and then cook up something tasty back at the lodge for dinner.  

 

Alex enjoying a cup of coffee on the black Punta Banco sands

​

Manuel Antonio

Day 80:

Spend the morning with a coffee in your hand on the Punta Blanco beach and take a nice little stroll down the black sand. Jump in the water for a refreshing cleanse and then head back up to the lodge and pack your bags. Whip up a breakfast and then put, “Tulemar Resort” in your google maps. The drive will take about three and a half hours. Make a pit stop at Sibu Cafe in Uvita for some coffee, fresh pastries, and gelato. Make your way up to Manuel Antonio and arrive at Casa Geraldo – a quaint little grotto-style Airbnb with white-rock walls, a hammock, and a day bed with a view. Inside the unit, you will find a kitchen, a queen-sized bed, a full-sized bathroom, and powerful air conditioning. They also have a lovely courtyard where they serve breakfast from 6:45-9:00 am. You can book five nights with them here for USD 72 a night. After you have settled in, head to El Avion – an old C-132 Fairchild used by Oliver North and his crew to transport troops and ammunition to fight the Sandinista Marxist government in Nicaragua in the late 1980s – which has now been converted into a two-story bar. Have a glass of chilled Chilean white wine while you watch the sunset on the shimmering calm Pacific Ocean in front of Isla Luana.

 

Restaurante El Avión

Alex in the Cockpit of the C-132 Fairchild

 

Afterward, head down the street to Samui for a taste of Thai food. For an appetizer, they have delicious chicken satay skewers and “mummy shrimp” or a shrimp and coconut wrapped spring roll style. For their mains, they do an excellent shrimp fried rice served in a halved pineapple and they also do a tasty vegetable pad thai. After dinner, you can walk across the street for some live music at Cafe Milagro. Get to bed on the earlier side because you have a big day tomorrow. Make sure you park the car directly in front of Casa Gerlado. Leave absolutely nothing in the car. No sunscreen, no flippers or snorkels, nothing at all. There is lots of crime here and leaving anything in the car will more than likely get you a smashed rear window. 

 

Day 81:

Wake up at 5:45 and get ready for a day at the national park. Wear good hiking shoes and bring snacks and water but do not bring any plastic, you will have to find a way to pack your snacks without using plastic or with a reusable zip-lock plastic container otherwise you will have to eat your food at the park's entrance. Drive seven minutes from the Airbnb to the national park entrance. For parking go all the way up to the park entrance and past the several lines of parking people standing in front of your car and trying to get you to use their lot. There will be a lot next to Cafe Donde Alex where you can park the car for 5,000 colones or roughly USD 9. You can buy tickets for the park online ahead of time or at a little booth on the left side of the street with a banner that says national park tickets. They are USD 2 per person. On the way in, you will be bombarded by people asking you if you would like a guide for the park. For this experience, it is best to bring your own binoculars, get to the gate at 6:45 am and then be at the park entrance walking in at 7 am. There will already be a decent line of people but nothing compared to the waves of people that will come in around 9 am and 10 am. Pass through the gates and make your way ahead of the pack of people, take the gravel trail to the left to see the most wildlife. You will soon find yourself relatively on your own.Walk out on La Trampa trail until you reach a food and water station and a little restaurant that is likely closed. Look up above the buildings here for sloths, it seems to be one of their favorite hiding places. Walk left and make your way down Gemelas Escondido trails until you reach the “Gemelas” or a twin set of little white sand beaches. You will emerge on the first beach but you can walk down to the rocks on the left end of it when facing the ocean and then make your way around that rock headland to the second of the Gemelas beaches for a private little white sand cove. Throw yourself in the water for a refreshing morning swim. Afterward, make your way to the Escondido Beach lookout for a brilliant view. Then on your way back, take a right up the Sendero Los 

Congos Trail and Sendero Mirador Trail to a breathtaking view of the calcium-rich turquoise-colored Pacific. The rich turquoise color is created by calcium deposits in the water from coral reefs. 

Head back down this Sendero Miradores Trail to Playa Manuel Antonio trail and make your way out on the beautiful white sand beaches and the famous peninsula of the national park. After you have taken in the view, cross over to the west side of the peninsula and take Sendero Playa Espadilla Sur along the beach that faces the town of Manuel Antonio to the National Park main gates. Once out of the park, treat yourself to a hearty casado at Cafe Donde Alex. They have an excellent casado with Pollo and Salsa (fish and salsa) or a Pescado Casado con Ajillo (Garlic Fish). The waiters are charismatic and a pleasure to talk to. The smoothies or batidos are also delicious. After breakfast, head back to Casa Geraldo and throw on some beach clothes. Make your way down to Playa Espadilla and walk left on the beach past all of the people until you are relatively on your own. Rest your weary feet and read a book as you watch boogie boarders and parasailers go by. That evening, have dinner at Love Indian Cuisine. They have excellent samosas which can be followed by a delicious Chicken Tika Masala with Garlic butter Naan. Sip on a Mango Lassi while you enjoy the cuisine. Head to bed early after a long day of adventure. 

Vista from Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

 

Day 82: 

Sleep in a bit, have breakfast in the peaceful courtyard studded with yellow Ylang Ylang flowers, and then head to Playa Biesanz down Mariposa Road. You will need 2,000 colones or roughly USD 4 for the parking attendants. It is a short five to ten-minute walk down to the beach from the road. Keep your eyes peeled for Sloths in the tree canopy above the path to Biesanz. Enjoy this little white sand beach all day and soak in the calcium-rich salt water. Be careful when entering the water as it is very rocky, but the silky quality of the water on your skin and the tranquility of Biesanz Bay make finding your way into the water well worth it. There is a little makeshift restaurant stand on the beach where you can order a casado if you have cash.Around noon, ask the hosts of Casa Gerlado to book you for the Mangrove night tour that evening. After a day immersed in the beautiful tranquility of

Biesanz – it might start to get a little more crowded in the afternoon – head back to Casa Geraldo and get ready for a tour of the oceanside jungle at night. You will meet the boat driver at Macha Tours– you can enter this into google maps – for an eye-opening evening in the mangrove jungle. It takes about fifteen to twenty minutes.  It is more than likely that you will see Pygmy Kingfishers, Boa Constrictors hanging in vines, Fer-de-Lance Deadly venomous snakes, Green Tree Frogs, bats, Four Eyed Possums, and Sloths. Bring your own flashlight if you have a powerful one and you can sweep it across the jungle to the sides of the boat and help the group spot any animals. The night tour costs USD 50 per person. That evening, walk five minutes right down the street from Casa Geraldo to have dinner at Agua Azul – a diner-style restaurant with generous servings. They have a delicious wet burrito with beef and also cook up a mean burger - they do a pounder and a two-pounder hamburger if you're feeling ambitious. 

 

Day 83: 

Wake up and enjoy the complimentary Casa Geraldo breakfast. The oats and fruit are very well done, however, the cinnamon and coconut pancakes are also delicious. Head down to Playa Playitas just off a Calle Mariposa on a four-wheel track to the secluded Playitas beach. Playitas is really just the West end of Playa Espadilla, but it has far fewer people and it is a pleasant slice of tranquility in the busy Manuel Antonio Area. Lounge around the beach until 12:30 pm and then head back up to Casa Geraldo for a 1:05 pm pickup at the gates of Tulemar resort next door for a lovely cruise on the 100-foot Turkish Wooden sailboat – Brisa Elegante. You can book the afternoon sail with them here. The tickets for the journey are $120 per person including dinner.

The ship will sail out of Marina Pez Vela, bring you over to Playa Espadilla, then out to sea to play with some dolphins if you are lucky, and then to the Biesanz Bay for some paddle boarding and snorkeling. The crew is fantastic. They will bring you an endless supply of smoothies and after snorkeling and swimming, they serve up a delicious Mahi Mahi casado-style meal on the boat with garlic butter and chipotle sauce. This experience is very unique because while you can order a cocktail, it is not a booze cruise like many of the other catamarans and boats that bring people out of Pez Vela in the afternoon. They also raise both mainsails and provide you with an authentic sailing experience. Enjoy your time on the water. Later that evening if you are still feeling a bit hungry head to Ensō Sushi down the street from Casa Geraldo. They have a fabulous staff and they have a mouth–wateringly delicious selection of rolls. Some of the best are the Dragon Roll, Atun Fresco, Tiger Roll, and the Pescador Roll. Head back to Casa Geraldo with a full belly and watch a film on the large daybed outside the studio. 

​

Alex & Caitlin onboard the Brisa Elegante

​

Day 84:

Pick your choice of Casa Geraldo’s breakfast Afterwards, head down to Dominical for a dose of sunshine. The drive is a little over forty minutes. Park next to a lifeguard stand to ensure the safety of your vehicle and then throw yourself into the refreshing Pacific.  Get your tan on and take a run down the beach towards Playa Dominicalito to get your endorphins pumping.  Read on the beach, explore Dominical, and get a bite to eat at any of the Sodas in town. Catch a local surf contest around 5 pm. Then make your way back to Manuel Antonio. For dinner, head to Mango Moon restaurant–just down Calle Mariposa – for a taste of delicious and authentic Korean barbeque. This out-of-the-way and secluded little restaurant splashed with brilliant yellow mango-colored walls offers a tranquil and romantic atmosphere. The food is cooked on a hot skillet in front of you by a lovely waitstaff. The scallion pancakes and the shrimp gyoza are delicious starters. For the main course, both the Bulgogi beef and pork come highly recommended.  

 

King on the steps of Casa Geraldo

​

Coco

Day 85: 

Have your last breakfast at Casa Geraldo, pack your bags, and hit the road. Drive up Central America Route 1 to Playa Coco to your accommodations at Casa Aire. You can book the modern bohemian-style studio for USD 74 a night here. The drive will take about 5 hours and brings you through Liberia. Stop at Subway Sandwiches in Liberia for a late afternoon lunch and reintegration into modern society before coming into Coco. Unpack your bags at Casa Aire and settle in. Walk left on the main road out the gate for about eight minutes until you reach the beach. Walk along the beachfront for sunset, past the skateparks and basketball courts until you reach a playground. Once there, turn around and head down Avenue Central past the colorful shops and a smattering of restaurants to Super Compro El Coco for a quick grocery shop. Buy what you need for breakfast and lunch the next day.  

 

The doorman at Casa Aire

 

Day 86: 

Wake up and chef up a little breakfast in the studio. Pack a lunch and plenty of water, then drive about 40 minutes north to Playa Cabuyal – a beautiful, long white sand beach. After you park at the lot, walk right down the beach until you have it all to yourself. Enjoy the calm bay and the beautiful clear blue water. Read a book and relax in the sun. That evening, head to the AutoMercado for groceries – you might be shocked by how similarly it resembles an American supermarket. Cook up a meal in the little studio and settle into bed.  

Massive Iguana eating mangoes in front of Casa Aire

 

Day 87: 

Throw some coffee on, shake the cobwebs from your head, and put the boards on the car. Pack a lunch and head down to Playa Avellana – just south of Tamarindo – for a day in the surf. The drive will take you about an hour and a half. Park at the beach, as close as you can to the water, and then walk right to a secluded area under a tree by the water. Surf your heart out here, it is a small but forceful wave, so keep your wits about you.  Have a picnic lunch on the beach and read a book late into the afternoon. Around 4:30 pm, leave the beach and head to Matos Surf Shop in Tamarindo to buy travel bags for your surfboards. They have a large selection of board bags at Matos and you will need one to fly the board home. You should be able to get a decent board bag for USD 120 US here. After you secure a bag, head to Crunchy Arepas and Empanadas for some of the best Arepas you will have in your life, they have a delicious chicken and avocado arepa and they also have a mouth-wateringly good beef arepa. Drive back up to Coco in the dark and get some shut-eye before a big day tomorrow. 

 

Caitlin & King playing fetch at Playa Cabuyal

​

Day 88: 

Wake up early, slam a quick coffee, and then, hit the road to go check out Naranjo beach in the Santa Rosa National Park.  The drive to the main registration office of the park will take you about an hour and fifteen minutes. Put Santa Rosa Sector Guanacaste Conservation Area into google maps for navigation directions.  Make sure you reserve tickets in advance online. You can do so here: https://reservaciones.acguanacaste.ac.cr/en/naranjo/.  You will reserve them online but you will not pay at the park office. After you check-in, the 4x4 drive down to the beach will take you about forty minutes. From there, show the agent at the Naranjo outpost your tickets and walk out onto the sand.  It is about 200 yards to get to the beach. Once you reach the sand, walk right until you find a little shade outpost where you can stash your cooler.  Relax on the beach, it is very hot so make sure to keep applying sunscreen and throwing yourself into the surf. In the late afternoon, when the intense heat starts to cool off a little, walk down the hard low-tide sand to Witch's Rock at the far end of the beach. Explore the river and the pools behind it for crocodiles and other brackish water marine life in the estuary. Catch a little bit of the sunset, but leave the beach before 5:30 pm so you can make it through the yellow gate at the top of the 4-wheel route before it closes at 6:00 pm. Make your way back to Coco and grab dinner at Nakupasi in town for a hearty and final Casado before you leave Costa Rica.  

 

Caitlin walking over the hot sand at Parque Nacional Santa Rosa

Caitlin holding a massive sand dollar in her hand

Windswept sands in front of Witch’s Rock at Playa Naranjo

Alex walking the shimmering Playa Naranjo Beach

 

Day 89:

Head to Liberia airport and catch your flight home! Make sure to allow yourself three hours between dropping the rental car off at economy rental, catching their shuttle to the airport, and getting through security to your gate. If you have any extra food in your fridge, you can donate it to the church next door to Casa Aire instead of throwing it out. 

 

Day 90:

Home!